The collection was a flashback to the 1940s with a ultra modern look on glamour. Sequins were used in almost all the garments with a focus on the hips. Peplums cinched at the waist and floated over long trail skirts. Lots of obi belts separated loose blouses and fitted skirts in the most flattering hour glass silhouette. This has been a good year for Atsu he was amazing at LFW and now WIFW, keep it up!
Every fashion week needs a collection that pushes boundaries and doesn’t just make clothes to sell. This was one such collection, a little Gaultier-esque, yet the intricate faux wooden paneling on the garments were I’m sure painstaking but the end result completely worth it. The juxtaposition of pleated Georgette with the unmovable wood gave the collection a sense of balance. My favourite look from the collection was the last strip molded wooden and tulle paneled dress. Stunning.
Although not a complete change from his usual distinct identity, the show did have many strong points. Looking at the visuals and the garments it looked like Gaurav blew smoke at a mannequin and then took pictures. The plumes of smoke translated into his unusual drapes and paneling, something which kept us interested. The lack of armholes perplexed me, but It did have an unusual visual appeal. The lace and sequined dresses did have a bit of a Givenchy feel; but it did get a round of applause when the models came out in them.
Anamika Khanna is a genius at making embroidery and cut outs look distressed yet chic. The sequined/embroidery cut out jackets and coats were dressed together with a variety of interesting black relaxed pants. Almost all the looks had 3 garments, with interesting pairings like a high waist skirt worn with wide leg trousers. Some of the garments were similar to her Spring/Summer collection but still was a well put together collection. Btw! The phallic hair-dos made for some interesting after show conversation. One intern even said “The hair-dos give new meaning to the word D*** Head!” (witty but… YIKES!)