The second day of the Van Heusen India Men’s Week clearly belonged to the fresh and bright colours that designer Ashish Soni splashed his models with, on the runway. Bright orange jackets, pink knee-length shorts (we loved them) and red pants worn over lilac slip-on shoes were just a few of the clothes that played a starring role in his collection.
The sartorial style of the chic European men who summer on the Côte d’Azur are the inspiration for this collection. Ashish has used bold silhouettes and complemented them with smart and intricate detailing. In fact, most of the collection is a playful experimentation of the timeless statement two-piece linen suit.
A bandhgala and a single breast suit are combined into one by treating the left and the right sides separately but within the silhouette of the same jacket. In some pieces Ashish removes the lapels completely, and cuts into the body of the jacket creating an “open breasted jacket” or alternatively, he creates a false lapel that seamlessly fades into a crease, and then back into the jacket as if it actually grew from it.
The other star of the day was everybody’s favourite (and reclusive) designer, Rajesh Pratap Singh. He sent his models out with most of their faces covered with scarves, leaving just the eyes visible. Sticking to his favourite subtle hues of brown, grey and beige, Rajesh’s star piece was his leather pants, which fit the models like a glove.
Designers Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna defined their line as “Elegance and beauty merging seamlessly with retro and funky. It’s a collection where classic and modern come together to create an effortless impact.”
Called “Joie De Vivre” the collection saw cool color tones mixed with bright palettes, making each item an easy to wear choice for Spring 2012. In particular, I liked the bright lilac suit and their sharply strcuctured jackets.
The other designer duo, David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore, took traditional Indian silhouettes and classic men’s wear textiles and playfully reinterpreted them in new proportions and silhouettes. The lay their emphasis on easy dressing with a play on contrasts. For example, there was a lot of structure teamed with fluidity, and also organic homespun fabrics teamed with man made fabrics.
And finally, Abhshek Gupta’s line in dark hues and white, stood out for it’s sheer elegance and play-safe factor.