Artist Payal Khandwala is one of those few people on Mumbai’s social circuit who has a formidable reputation for being well-dressed and exquisitely styled! Her petite frame and elfin looks, are often a canvas she uses to style herself, apart from the rest of the junta.
So, when I heard that she was going to debut her fashion collection at Lakme Fashion Week, I was intrigued! Even though she shared a little with us, about what we could expect from Play, it was hard to pinpoint, as to what her collection would be like. Would she be inspired by Matisse’s doves (like Yves Saint Laurent) or Jackson Pollock’s drip-paint style (like Jean Paul Gaultier) or even Gustav Klimt (as many designers have looked towards his work for inspiration over the years!)?
Arriving in the nick of time to witness her spectacular showing, I realised that every piece, which was paraded down the ramp, had a bit of Payal herself, in it. The colours, the silhouettes, the drapes – they were all an extension of her persona! Each piece could have been from her very own closet; there was no playing to the gallery for this designer. She used jewel tones and colour blocking (a bit of Mondrian inspiration there?) to maximum effect, as she sculpted, twisted and draped her garments to wrap the body.
Of course, she does reveal that she, “Draws from the works of abstractionists like Mark Rothko and Barnett Newman“, yet, Payal’s silhouettes, which are not overtly masculine nor are they too feminine, are infused with a sense of play and an element of surprise.
The best part about this collection is the wide range of fabrics, which come come together to create a singular look. Payal has used rich Indian silks, linens and cottons to make layered separates, that work perfectly with each other when worn together.
Clearly, this was one of the more thought-out collections at Lakme Fashion Week.