The six fresh talents that debuted under GenNext at LFW yesterday, were proof that Indian designers no longer need to hide behind zardozi and raw silk – Global trends are percolating across borders and these 6 are proof of it.
Tapping into the booming menswear markets, 25 year old Anuj Bhutani‘s label Reboot presented relaxed tailoring and light winter dressing for men. Deep blue, grey, olive, rust and fawn were textured with cubes of threadwork and block prints. Sport Jackets and parkas, paired with kurta shirts and tailored trousers featured subtle construction details.
Fever Ray of The Knife is the inspiration behind Surbhi Shekhar’s debut collection. She pays tribute to wiccan elementss with draped sihouelttes constructed using ombré silks paired with light suede. Fringes and feathers featured alongside motifs that resembled cave painting. Tribal geometric headpieces framed the model’s faces beautifully, adding a hint of the occult
London College of Fashion graduate, Neha Agarwal‘s tribal collection was called Niola Doa, inspired by Ethopia’s Mursi tribe. Debuting under her label NEZ, she presented a predominantly black collection with burgundy and burnt orange accents. Macramé leather detailing featured throughout the collection. Dabbling in a bit of millinery, the looks featured feathered headgear and warrior helmets.
Kristy De Cunha‘s take on Frida Kahlo was called ‘La Casa Azul’. Kristy brought a burst of colour onto the runway with fun illustrations that featured as prints on cape dresses and voluminous skirts. Red roses and tropical blue base dominated the collection with fluorescent embroidered highlights.
The two debutants that showed promise this season were Arunima Majhi and Dhruv Kapoor.
NIFT graduate, Arunima’s ‘Venus Fly Trap’ highlighted the designer’s pattern skills. Delicate feminine prints came alive on razor sharp silhouettes. Leather, linen and satin were elegantly paired together and juxtaposed with sheer net and organza. An element that struck our fancy was the mini cape that featured on the last look.
The highlight at at GenNext was Dhruv Kapoor. With Team Kapoor in the audience to back him up, Dhruv showcased a strong collection supported by and equally strong press kit. Presently both menswear and womenswear, the collection tied itself together seamlessly with clean and modern shapes and an intelligent use of fabric. Dhruv Kapoor is definitely one to watch out for!
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Pictures: Viral Bhayani