Pashmina is one of, if not the finest quality wool available to mankind and it is the most refined version of cashmere. But what makes the fabric so special, you ask? Not to worry though we’ve got you covered with everything you need to know about pashmina.
We reached out to pashmina expert, Divya Puri Mahendra, founder of Rayaa India, who answered the most frequently asked questions one would have about pashmina shawls. Working to preserve the age-old art of Kashmir, her main aim is to source authentic, pure pashmina and get them handwoven into shawls and stoles for buyers.
1: What is pashmina?
A: Pashmina, (popularly known as cashmere in Europe) one of the finest fabrics, is twill-weave from the under-fleece of Changthangi goat. It is a super soft, valuable fabric that our artisans and weavers hand-weave into intricantely designed shawls and stoles, inside the traditional Kashmiri looms. Pashmina shawls have always been worn by both men and women in India from as early as the 17th century. However, it was only in the 18th century that these luxury shawls became a rage across Europe and other western countries.
2: How is it made?
A: Pashmina shawls are made of ‘pashm’, which is the downy undercoat of Tibetan goats, found in the higher regions of Ladakh. The undercoat of these goats is combed gently in winters by professionals ensuring no animal is harmed in the process. The pashm then goes through a sorting procedure to obtain fine hair, free of all contamination or dirt. Once it makes its way to the processing unit, it is hand-spun manually on a traditional charkha to produce the finest quality yarn used to prepare a pashmina shawl.
The yarn is then washed to clean it of any impurities, followed by the dyeing process. The weaving process of converting yarn into a shawl is done in traditional looms, where the weaver creates magic creating the highest quality of shawls and stoles of different designs or colours. The final pashmina product then goes on to be hand embroidered as needed before it makes its way to the market. However, it is important to note that owing to its handmade nature, no two pashmina products are ever the same.
3: How can you tell an original pashmina?
A: The pashmina magnetism that began to attract the rich and novelty ages ago has now managed to be a cherished dream of many men and women across all strata of society. This precious handwoven epitome of luxury if genuine and authentic can be passed on from generation to generation. The following tests should be considered to identify a real pashmina from a fake one:
a. Unevenness
It is well said that all pashmina is cashmere but not all cashmere is pashmina. Genuine and authentic pashmina is hand spun and handwoven. Owing to this handmade nature, it is bound to have certain irregularities in its design.
b. Pilling
Pilling refers to the process where small balls of lint form on a piece of clothing. Pilling is a definite feature with animal fibre material. So if you don’t spot any pilling on your pashmina product, it means that it is not genuine and mixed with some synthetic fibres.
c. Dimensions
The lower the micron count, the softer the product. A pashmina product usually comes with a count of 14-15.5 microns. Usually, a pashmina stole is 28 x 80 inches and a shawl is 40 x 80 inches, so in case someone is selling higher dimensions products at a lower cost, chances are that it is not an original pashmina product.
d. Tag or Glue
Real pashmina fabric won’t hold the glue for too long. You need to stitch the labels on a pure pashmina product.
e. Irregular Weave
Owing to its handmade nature, a pure pashmina product will always have an irregular weave and no two products’ weaving will be the same.
f. Burn Test
To carry out this test, a thread is picked out from the fringes of a pure pashmina product. Upon being burnt, it gives the smell of burnt hair and ashes turn out to be like a dusty substance.
g. Softness and Warmth
Pashmina is a hypoallergenic fabric and should cause no allergic reaction. Made of fibres of fine diameter, a pure pashmina shawl is super soft and warm in nature.
4: How many types of Pashmina are there?
A: A lot has been said and written about the exquisiteness and charm of pashmina shawls and stoles, handmade by the talented artisans of Kashmir valley. The designs reflected in these shawls showcase their creativity, never ceasing to amaze the buyers. There are various types of shawls and stole available, made into different styles and designs. However, another expensive kind is a pashmina sari and a pashmina blanket, made into designs characterised as pretty and charming. A pashmina product can be made in various designs and styles; the length of a pure pashmina shawl is usually 40 x 80 inches and a stole is 28 x 80 inches, whereas men’s muffler comes in 15 x 72 inches in size and men’s shawl is 55 x 110 inches in size.
Following are the kinds of pashmina shawls and stoles available:
1. Solid or plain pashmina
2. Ombre or dual colour pashmina
3. Pattern pashmina
4. Embroidered pashmina
5. Kani embroidery
6. Reversible pashmina
7. Metallic pashmina
8. Kalamkari pashmina
9. Digital print pashmina
5: What are the different kinds of motifs used on pashmina shawls?
A: It is a well-known fact that Kashmir pashmina has provided the weavers and artisans with a platform to showcase their talent, engaging them in traditional looms to showcase the finest of skills. To make a pashmina shawl, artisans, weavers and designers use different kinds of motifs, often inspired by Mughal-style flowers; such as:
- Paisley motifs, famously known as ambi or kairi (mango), badam (almond), and kalgai (plumes) designs.
- Multi-floral buta or boteh motifs have always been the classic dominant motifs in a pashmina product; buti– the small single flower derived from Mughal-inspired single flowering plant.
- Geometrical designs with lahriya zigzags signifying water in its motifs.
- Pictorial shawls; depicting shikargah– hunting shawls, depicting jungle scenes with various animals and human figures.
- Jamawar with all over design. Shawls with these motifs usually have no pallavs.
- Kani is a famous form of embroidery that comes with floral motifs.
- Map shawls, which were famous in the 19th century, come with designs that depict the cities.
- Khat-rast motifs with stripes.
- Zanjeer or chain motifs with horizontal design on the border.
- Bouquets or a bunch of flowers with big flower motifs at the heart, surrounded by smaller flowers.
6: What all kinds of yarns are used for embroidering on pashmina?
A: The hand-spun pashmina yarn comes with a diameter of 14-15.5 microns. However, for embroidery, we use two different kinds of yarn on a pure pashmina shawl or stole. One is ‘staple’ or cotton thread and the other one is ‘silk’ yarn. The silk yarn is expensive and is mostly used on a double-sided shawl for a neat and radiant look. Embroidery done using a silk yarn is finer and provides a delicate look to the pashmina product. However, embroidery done using the staple yarn has more ability to hold the fibre and colours together. Mostly staple yarn has a diameter of 140/120 for embroidery on a pashmina product. Once the embroidery is done, it is given a neat look by cutting the extra thread at the back using scissors.
7: Why is pashmina so expensive?
A: Treated as a collectable, a piece of art that’s passed on from generation to generation, the Kashmiri pashmina shawl is still considered a lucrative investment. Established as an exclusive accessory in the 16th century, the handmade pashmina shawl was favoured by the Indian maharajas, British monarchs, Mughals and entered the European market with the French aristocrats. However, this sustainable piece of luxury comes with an expensive price tag.
1. Pashm – the wool
One of the most sought-after fabrics, a pashmina fabric is made of ‘pashm’ which is collected from high-altitude Changthang regions of Ladakh. Pashm comes from the under fleece of Changthangi goats or Capra Hircus, found near the neck and stomach area. These goats are reared at an altitude of 4600 meters above sea level, where the temperature plummets to – 40 degrees Celsius. Shedding of the goat’s winter coat is done by professional weavers called Change, who comb the hair gently and precisely without causing any harm to the goat. Changthangi goats are rare to find and one goat produces only 150-200 grams of usable wool, which in turn makes the fibre expensive. In order to make one pashmina shawl, usually, a shawl maker needs wool of two to three goats.
2. Labour-intensive manual process
Once it makes its way to Kashmir, the pashm goes through a quality check process, which includes sorting, cleaning and removing any impurities or dirt present. Once sorted, the fibre is washed with rice starch before the processing starts. Pure pashmina fabric is always handspun before starting with the weaving process. The handmade process involved in the making of a pure pashmina product including hand embroidery at the end makes it a highly expensive product made with expert craftsmanship.
3. Size and Softness
A pure pashmina product comes with a diameter of 14-15.5 microns. Hence, the final product is light in weight, super soft and extremely warm in nature. A strand of human hair is 80 microns in diameter and pashmina is even finer than that. The lesser the diameter, the better is the quality of pashmina fibre.
4. Decline in number of artisans and weavers
A pure pashmina product involves a number of processes with a lot of people involved. These include spinners, designers, dyers, weavers etc. However, due to lack of funds, there are just a few artisans left in Kashmir who are experts in producing the right quality of product, which makes the art expensive.
5. Durability
When taken care of in the right manner, a pure pashmina product can stand the test of time and stay intact for generations. Owing to its handmade nature and labour-intensive processes involved, this fibre is made to be a lucrative investment that lasts for a long time.
6. Pashmina in the west
From Kani to embroidered ones, the art of Kashmiri shawls is greatly admired by all in the west. The global demand for pashmina has risen with many countries selling Indian pashmina products, handmade in Kashmir. However, it is important to know different ways to identify real pashmina from a fake one, which is now extensively being sold as cashmere.
8: What kind of dyes are used to colour pashminas?
A: Mostly working in their ancestral shops, the dyeing process in a shawl making business in the valley of Kashmir is an inheritance for many dyers. In the 17th century, the skillful art of dyeing involved a broad spectrum of fast colours – 64, which was obtained from a few substances using different combinations and proportions. Except for black, all other dyestuff was organic. The main dyestuff included indigo for blue, lac and kermes; procured from insects, logwood for shades of red, safflower and saffron (used for expensive shawls only) for the shades of yellow. Shades of blue and green were obtained by boiling the dye out of English broadcloth; imported specially for the purpose, ferrous sulphate mixed with other dyes was used for black colour. All reds and pinks were derived from lac, dark red and violet shades were obtained by mixing lac with indigo in different proportions.
In the 19th century, some manufacturers started using a newly invented chemical dye known as aniline, whose colours lacked softness and durability. However, many manufacturers objected to the use of these artificial colours, hence it was banned. However, in the 20th century, pashmina makers still preferred using natural dyes for their pashmina products.
9: What are the best ways to store Pashmina products?
A: If stored in the right manner, your pashmina product can be your best friend for life. Here are some ways to store your pashmina shawl or stole:
- Fold it neatly and keep it in a well-aired place, directly away from sunlight.
- The best way to store it is to wrap it in a muslin cloth.
- Add some naphthalene balls if stored for months to keep all kinds of pests away.
- Do not pack in a plastic cover.
Here are some additional tips to help you care for your pashmina product:
1. In case you spot pilling on your pashmina product, use a special cashmere comb to gently remove it.
2. Iron on very low heat with cloth in between.
3. Do not tumble dry.
4. Dry clean is recommended.
5. Wash at home with cold water and dry away from direct sunlight.
6. Store each piece neatly in individual storage bags.
7. Take it out and ensure you air your pashmina product periodically to retain longevity.
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